We ate Paczki for Fat Thursday when we lived in Poland, but this is the first year that I’ve made my own. Like everything else, homemade is always better. If I’m perfectly honest, I couldn’t understand the fuss about store-bought Paczki. It’s probably because I was, based on the appearance, expecting an American doughnut. I found the pastry itself too dense and bread-y and the jam too scant. Now that I’ve had homemade, I know that all of you who have enjoyed mama’s or babcia’s paczki were holding out on me!
My own Paczki? The outside is crisp; the dough is rich and delicate, like an orange scented brioche. The jam, in my case orange marmalade, really is just an accent. As I said, homemade is always better! So with the last week of Karnawal approaching, let me urge you to make your own paczki for Fat Thursday.
Although I’ve doubled the flour used, I’ve used the recipe from Polish Cookery, the translation of Uniwersalna Ksiazka Kucharska (the Universal Cookbook, published in the early 1900s) by Marja Ochorowica-Monatowa, which bills itself as Poland’s best-selling cookbook adapted for American kitchens. This was the first of my many Polish cookbooks. It’s translated and adapted by Jean Karsavina, originally published in 1958. I have to agree wholeheartedly with Ms. Karsavina’s remarks in the preface:
Poland, like France, is a country where people really know food. One can stop at a peasant home in the country, a wayside inn, a modest restaurant in a working-class neighborhood, and be served a meal with remembering. Good food is tradition. Polish hospitality is legendary.
Gone from the original book in Polish are the recipes for Roast Boar’s Head and Turkey Garnished with Two Dozen Roast Field Thrushes, and the original author’s assertion that the book’s purpose was to “give brides a knowledge of how cooking is done, so that they may supervise the servants properly.” This was essential, Ms. Montowa says because, “everyone knows how apt servants are to cheat, especially if the lady of the house makes no attempt to interest herself in planning menus or fails to check bills and accounts. If,” she tells us, “there is time on one’s schedule for singing lessons, piano practice, water coloring, and fine embroidery, surely there is also a half-hours each day which can be made available for one’s housewifely duties. . .” It’s a long way from my great-grandmother who was raising 10 children, homesteading with her cattle-ranching husband in the Arizona Territory at the time. 😉
Whether you are supervising the staff or making your own pastry in homage to a pioneer ancestors, I hope you’ll give Paczki for Fat Thursday a try this year, especially if you’ve never had homemade. Give Karnawal a good send off. My friend Klaudia tells me the nicest and most traditional jam to use it a rose jam, but you can certainly use other fruit jams or marmalade.
A brioche-like, jam filled pastry eaten to mark the last week before Lent
- 4 cups flour
- 2 cups boiling milk
- 1 packet of dry yeast
- 1/4 cup lukewarm milk
- 6 egg yolks
- 1/2 cup sugar
- 1/2 vanilla bean pod, split and scraped
- 2 teaspoons grated orange zest
- 1/2 cup butter, melted
- flour, jam, deep fat for frying
- Stir 1 cup flour into boiling milk
- Remove from heat and beat until smooth
- Dissolve yeast in the 1/4 cup milk
- Add to the four mixture
- Stir and let stand half an hour
- Cream egg yolks and sugar, add vanilla and orange rind
- Stir into the dough when it begins to rise
- Add remaining flour and butter and beat until it forms a sticky dough
- Cover and let stand 45-60 minutes, until doubled in size
- Turn out on a floured board, knead just a few times
- Divide dough in half and roll to 5/8 inch thich
- Cut out circles
- Place a teaspoon of jam, the fruit only, not runny syrup, on half of the circles
- Cover with remaining circles, press edges together
- Cover and let rise again
- Fry a few at a time in deep fat, 340 -345 F for about 4 minutes, taking care not to burn the dough
- Drain and serve rolled in powdered sugar, granulated sugar, or glaze
This cookbook layers the jam between two cutouts. If you have a long pastry tip, you could also pipe jam into paczki after frying.