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Polish Housewife

Polish recipes served up with tidbits of folklore, customs, and history

Dining Out

Restaurant Day Poznan

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I first learned about Restaurant Day in early August when a friend “liked” it on facebook. The name caught my attention and I wanted to investigate. As I recall, Restaurant Day began in Helsinki, Finland a couple of years ago. It has now spread to other cities in other countries. Four times a year, for one day only, anyone who is interested sets up a pop-up restaurant. Selling their favorite creations at a price that will just cover their food costs.

Not that setting up this kind of restaurant is legal, participants are just ignoring the laws and regulations that restrict such things. . . for one day, kind of like a bake sale. They select a spot, list their location online, and when the day comes, set up a table, and feed passers-by.

I installed the Restaurant Day app for my iPhone, and we set off to visit the pop-ups who had registered for Restaurant Day Poznan on August 19th. First, we visited KontenerART – home to several restaurants. We sampled items from multiple vendors – most were college students who like to cook. None of the restauranteurs we chatted with had ever done this before. They had just learned about it a few weeks before and thought they’d give it a try. Ed sampled gazpacho made by a young woman who had brought 12 kilos of tomatoes from her village – tomatoes that taste like tomatoes, not like the ones they sell in Poznan (her words, not ours). We also tried pastries, lemonade, roasted parsnips chips, and a mango smoothie. The food was fantastic, although the cold things would have been better if they were more chilled. The location was cute, but I didn’t love walking in the deep sand while making the rounds.

Welcome to the picnic

Our next stop was the park in front of the Opera House. There was only one restaurant here, run by four friends who had been up baking all night. They called their pop-up “Picnic.” We sampled their delicious thick crust pizza, lemonade, and a pastry. The day was warm and their location under the trees was perfect. They had two large tables, with an enormous variety of goodies – maybe too many choices.

By this time, we were too full to eat at the final restaurant we saw in the park behind Stary Browar. I suspect these fellows have done this before. A variety of choices, but not too many, and their savory items were not priced individually, there was a set price for their buffet. They had their own DJ and a very professional presentation.

I asked a friend who is the chef/co-owner of the Curious Kumquat in Silver City for his take on Restaurant Day wondering how a professional would feel about it. Rob, being a very generous sort, thought it sounded like great fun. His only reservation was food safety – hoping that the pop-ups would give it as much thought as real restaurants.

Food safety brings me to my final observation. I’ll reveal my American obsessive compulsive disorder here. Many of the items on display were crawling with wasps. This is not unusual. I’ve seen the same in supermarkets and convenience stores. I seem to be the only person bothered by it. And when I try my hand at this come Restaurant Day in November, insects shouldn’t be a problem.

Planning my menu will be fun and easy. Coming up with a suitable November location will require some serious thought. Any ideas?

Zapiekanka

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Kebab zapiekanka with ketchup and garlic sauce

For years, I watched young people wandering the old square munching on a long piece of bread and melted cheese.  I finally tried one the other day.  Zapiekanka, I’ve read, was popular during Communist times, made with a baguette, mushrooms, cheese, and topped with ketchup.  The popularity has continued with many more toppings available now.   So many toppings that I found it a bit overwhelming.  Not knowing all of the words on the menu board, I opted for the familiar kebab.  Very filling, even the small one was more than I could eat.

A Polish friend, who spend college summers working fast food jobs in the US, told us about the reaction she got from coworkers when she put ketchup on her pizza.  They were probably as surprised by that idea as I was, but now, I think I see where it comes from.

Thanksgiving Trip to Torun, Malbork Castle and Gdansk

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Toruń

There are little pockets of Thanksgiving celebration around Poland.  In Poznan, Credo, a restaurant we enjoy, offered up the traditional fixings on the holiday.  The Nazarene church shared a Thanksgiving meal with their Saturday evening worship with thanks given in English, Polish, and Russian.

Copernicus

We took to the road – piling into our minivan with three other Americans from Ed’s office and Benson (our dog).  Looking back the theme of our trip could have been Copernicus, granaries, and gingerbread.  We left Wednesday afternoon, making our first stop in Torun.  Our hotel, a former granary within the walls of the medieval old town had a terrific restaurant complete with fireplace, polka band, and smalec (pronounced smalitz), rendered pork fat that’s eaten with bread rather than butter.  Individually wrapped gingerbread cookies were left on our pillows.

Bill & Janet
Woody & Ed
smalec
the boys – Benson needs a flat cap

The old section of Torun is beautiful and small enough that you can easily see everything you want on foot, but remember we walk a lot.  Besides being the birthplace of Copernicus, Torun is one of many towns claiming to have invented gingerbread.  One legend that we came across said that a housewife used honey in her bread rather than starter one day after a little too much mead.   There’s a gingerbread museum where you can bake your own in a wooden mold and a gingerbread store on every corner.   I’ve baked more than my share of gingerbread houses when our daughters were young, so the baking wouldn’t have been a novelty to me, but I was keeping my eye open for a wooden gingerbread mold without luck.

We stopped by Kona Coast  Cafe before we left town on Thursday.  The cafe is owned by John (American) and his wife Magda (Polish).  They roast their own beans and the coffee was so good that we bought a bag of beans to bring home.  We learned from John  the A1 highway to Gdansk was open, news that took more than an hour off of our drive that day.  🙂

View from the Gdansk Hotel

We checked into the Gdansk Hotel, a former granary, with a breathtaking view of the city.  We had Thanksgiving dinner at a restaurant that specialized in pierogi – 20 varieties on the menu.  I had a sampler plate and chose four different kinds – mushroom, potato and cheese, sweet cheese and fruit, and chicken with nuts and raisins.  The food was fine, but I realized that there’s a reason some combinations are classics.  The chicken-nut-raisin pierogi just weren’t memorable.

Malbork Castle
a castle dining room

Friday, we drove to Malbork Castle, completed around 1300 AD, it’s the largest brick castle in the world.  We had a English speaking guide who spent a couple of hours showing us around.  She mentioned that Copernisus frequented the castle, pointed out the section that had been the granary, and went on and on about the toilets:

  • –where the toilets were located
  • –the pathways the monks would have used to get to the toilet
  • –a gargoyle statue whose beard pointed the way to the toilet
  • –how the toilets drained into the water below
  • –some unwanted guests were eliminated by “falling” into the toilet
the castle kitchen

In two hours, she told us many other things, but you see what sticks in my mind. That, and the kitchen – the heart and soul of a home, even in a castle.

I loved the painting on this wall at the Solidarity Museum, pity about the door.

We spent Saturday wandering around Gdansk.  We visited the Solidarity Museum with reminders about life in Poland under communist rule and learned about the beginning of the end.  We all remember Lech Walesa, Solidarity leader and former president of Poland.  I now know that English speakers have grossly mispronounced his name (Vawensa would be closer).  His estranged wife, Danuta, has just published her memoirs – her side of their life together.  I hope it comes out in English.  I love this quote from the Christian Science Monitor review of her book, “We had crowds of labor union members, advisers, politicians, journalists and lunatics pouring into our apartment from dawn until late at night.”

amber shop

With the sun low in the sky at 3 PM, the men in our party settled in Restauracja Republika, a sports bar, for beer and football while Janet and I visited the amber shops and a gingerbread shop located in what used to be the home of Copernicus’ mistress.  Here, I found a wooden gingerbread mold! We ended up staying at Republika for dinner.  I ordered the cod, but when I had a bite of Ed’s burger, I knew I’d made a mistake.  Their burgers are extraordinary – worth the drive!

We hurried home on Sunday, only a 4.5 hour drive with the new highway, to make it to the Lech Poznan match that evening.  You’d think our dedication would motivate them to score, but no, a 0-1 loss.

It was a wonderful trip.  Stateside friends and family, you should be visiting! You’re missing out on Europe’s best kept secret.  

Manekin Restaurant, Poznan

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For months, my husband has been telling me that two of his friends were opening a pancake restaurant in Poznan.  My first thought was something like an IHOP, but that’s not it.  I’ve come across two kinds of pancakes in Poland, potato pancakes and giant crepes (with sweet or savory fillings) – both delisious, but nothing that resembles the familiar stack of flapjacks.

The location, not far from the old square, required some serious renovation, and that has kept the managers busy.  I’m happy to say it’s finally here!  Manekin, located at Kwiatowa 3, was worth the wait.  The first Manekin restaurant is in Turin.  I believe the Poznan location is the fourth in Poland.

We had dinner there Saturday night, and it was fantastic!  If you’re really hungry, I recommend the mushroom soup, the #10 pancake from the meat section of the menu, and apple pie to finish it off.  The restaurant is spacious (includes a playroom for children), with clean white decor.  I would describe it as shabby-chic (which is so popular here) with an industrial edge.  English speakers who have tried sounding out the restaurant name may realize that it’s mannequin.  There are several mannequins adding interest and a feel of authenticity to the decor.

The portions are generous, and the prices are very affordable.  Manekin has even changed my mind about drinking wine in Poland.  After being charged 45 PLN (more than $15) for a glass of wine at a hotel in Warszawa, I had sworn off wine in Poland – deciding that I would stick to vodka and beer, the traditional local drinks.  I broke my own rule Saturday night, and I’m happy to say that the 5,5 PLN glass of wine was every bit as good as the expensive one in Warszawa.

 

St. Martin’s Croissant Workshop

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Some say the Internet is robbing us of a sense of community.  I would say that it opens up a new community.  To illustrate, let me tell you about a recent experience.  Because a reader (of this blog) is involved is public relations for the City of Poznan, I was invited to workshop for Polish food bloggers and the media at Cukiernia Koperski, a bakery famous for their St. Martin’s croissants.  (Thanks, Damian!)

I’ll tell you more about St. Martin’s day in Poznan in November.  It will be my first time to experience it firsthand.  The traditional food in Poznan on St. Martin’s day is a filled croissant; other than the ones sold in the old square to tourists, it’s only available this time of year, but residents of Poznan will consume 600 tons of the pastry next month!

Trying my hand at rolling

I wanted to prepare this local pastry for my food blog, so I have been searching online studying recipes.  I will still have to use an internet recipe, the bakery told us what they put in their croissants, but the exact proportions are secret.  There are certain ingredients that are  required because “Rogale świętomarcińskie” is registered with and protected by the European Union.  In order to use this name bakeries must also be certified by the City of Poznan and local bakers’ guild.  The filling, which is nut based, must also include white poppy seeds.  All of the ingredients must also be certified for this product,.  That means they can’t look for the best buy on eggs, butter, or flour; they must use certified eggs, butter, and flour, and the weight of the roll must be at least 250g (over half a pound).  You can see how this becomes a pricey pastry.  They sell for 9 PLN or about $3.

Because of the restrictions, this pastry is only produced in and around Poznan, however, this year, they’re being sold on allegro, an eBay-like website, and they’ll be available to all of Poland.  The shops selling the certified pastries display a certificate to assure shoppers that they’re buying the real deal.

Now a few words about the bakery and the final product.  Piotr Koperski opened the bakery in 1984, and it has won numerous awards.  His son, who also works in the bakery,  recently placed second in a international competition for pastry chefs.   Piotr told us that he sampled white poppy seeds from six different sources before choosing the freshest to use in this pastry.  It’s no wonder then, that my husband, who is about to celebrate his third St. Martin’s day in Poznan, said that the sample I brought home was the best he’s ever tasted.

I also want to thank Paulina, my interpreter for the day.  Paulina tells me that she is a Poznan tour guide, and I’m looking forward to seeing the city with her.

PS – As the only American, I was asked to do two TV interviews.  I told them that I was happy to be there and learn more about this Poznan culinary tradition, and that I did intended to bake some of my  own.

I wish I could be as funny as my husband, who was interviewed a few weeks after he arrived in the country  It was on St. Martin’s day 2009.  He was asked what he liked about Poland and answered with a long list of things.  The interviewer then said, “There must be something about Poland you don’t like.”  Without missing a beat, Ed replied, “I hate Wisła Krakow!”  (our football rival)  Now that’s thinking on your feet!

Cheap Eats in Poznan

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I’ve mentioned The Dubliner before.  It’s a Irish Pub in the Zamek Cultural Centre – the perfect place for a nightcap after the symphony.  It’s also become our new place for Sunday dinner.  All the food is half-off on Sundays.  Try the ribs, they’re great!

Cultural and Culinary Differences

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There are noticeable differences in Polish society and American society.  Ask an American how they are, and the answer will be “fine.”  We have a cultural norm of cheerfulness.  Smiles for everyone, whether you mean it or not.

Ask a Pole how they are, and they will really tell you, and it won’t be good.  I found an explanation for this on the internet recently.  Apparently, in Poland, it would be considered bragging to claim that everything in your life is fine.  It is polite to complain about a lack of sleep, poor health, or a heavy workload.

There is also the feeling that it would be dishonest to smile at someone for whom you don’t have kind feelings, including strangers.  If you’ve ever flown on Lot Polish Airlines and on Southwest Airlines in the U.S.,  the difference is well illustrated by the respective flight attendants.  The Lot flight attendants on the turboprops I take between Munich or Frankfurt and Poznan are very competent and very serious in German, Polish and English.  Southwest flight attendants, well, they’re sometimes over the top:

Now on to culinary differences.  That’s what got me started on this line of thought.  My husband and I ordered scrambled eggs at breakfast this morning.  We know that Poles like their jajecznica cooked less than most Americans like their eggs, so we got out the translator app on the phone to tell the waitress, “well done, cooked more.”  The poor guy in the kitchen just couldn’t do it.  I think the thought of serving dry eggs was just unconscionable.

 

Soccer Games Televised at the Movie Theater

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Recently, we watched Barcelona defeat Manchester United for the cup in the Champions League.  We had tickets to watch the match on the big screen at the Multikino movie theater at Galeria Matla, in 3-D no less.  Ed noticed that the beer at the theater was cheaper than at TGI Friday’s – reasonable refreshment prices at the theater and beer – two things we wouldn’t find at home.

Manufaktura, Łódź, Poland

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A French developer bought the crumbling, defunct Łódź textile mills in 2000.  By 2006,  they were transformed into a multifaceted cultural extravaganza.  The 19th century buildings were renovated, some brick by brick.

This mall seemed enormous to me.  It’s smaller than the Mall of America, about 3/4 the size, but I’ve never been to MOA.  Let’s just say it’s larger than any mall I’ve seen.

The complex includes 400 shops, many restaurants, museums, movie theater, and a 5 star hotel.  I visited the museum of the factory, next time the art museum.

Out and about in Poznań

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A new place for dinner on Friday night – Credo.  We’ve eaten in this storefront before, when the restaurant was L’Heroine.   We were disappointed to see one of our favorites close, but the food we sampled at Credo was just as good, and it seemed to me their were a few similarities in the menu.  I’m not sure what the back story is; same owners, same chef?  Anyone in the local hospitality industry want to fill us in?

After a wonderful meal, we stopped by another favorite, Kriek, the Belgian pub.  I adore the cherry beer.