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Atelier Amaro, Poland’s First Michelin Starred Restaurant

September 22, 2013 by Lois Britton 4 Comments

Ed had to be in eastern part of Poland for a trade show a few weeks ago, we made plans for me to meet him in Warsaw at the end of the week. While he was away, I learned that a Warsaw restaurant, Atelier Amaro had been given a Michelin star earlier this year, Poland’s first. I’d just finished reading Gordon Ramsey’s autobiography, so I had a better idea of what that star entailed.

If you want to go to Atelier Amaro, make a reservation at least three weeks in advance. With our last-minute (two days in advance) request, we didn’t find out until 3:00 PM on Friday that they would have a table for us that evening.
We splurged on their eight course tasting menu. Let me walk you through it with pictures. If you know Polish food, you’ll see the inspiration for these very modern creations, but there were no traditional perogi in sight. It was a fun evening full of memorable dishes, interestingly presented – some of the simpler ones will be making an appearance in our dining room.
The menu changes weekly

Before we got to the first course, we had three amouse bouches:

  • apple crisps with a marjoram puree (grooves were cut in the serving dish so the crisp, thin slices of apple stood upright)
  • a golf ball sized tidbit that looked like a little pearlescent apple but was actually made of apricot, herring, and horseradish
  • sweet potato chips served with goose fat and garlic (I realized that I love goose fat)
Then a bread basket arrived with three kinds of bread, two of which were delicious but normal. The third bread was black. Our waiter told us that the black bread got its color from hay ash (processed to get just the right texture) and also included seeds and nuts. This recipe took months to perfect. The hay ash made an appearance several times during the evening. The little apple mentioned above had a stem made from hay ash.
Our first course came and went without a photo. A thick slice of tomato, smoked, with vanilla salt, and I’m not sure what mirabelle is, maybe a type of plum?.  Have you heard of it?
Here we have herring with preserved cucumber, a green apple-chive ice cream, watercress, and jam
Served on a thick chunk of pink Himalayan salt which imparted a wonderful salty taste
This was presented without the broth, the waiter added the consomme at the table
This is oxtail with powdered leek, plum and “fermented bread” (our waiter words, I think we would say sour dough)
No photo of the goat cheese with bison grass and hazelnut. I won’t say that I didn’t like this dish, the taste was nice, but it didn’t leave us saying, “Wow! How did he come up with this?” like the other dishes did.
A sunchoke with boletus mushroom and purslane (succulent leaves that some may call a weed)
The black garnish on the plate? You guessed it! Hay ash!
White fish with elderflower, broad beans, and begoina
Wild duck with nasturtium, watercress, and cowberries or lingonberries
Thinly sliced beet root stuffed with buckwheat become “pierogi”
Our pre-dessert, cherry sorbet with mustard seeds served on a frozen slab
my guess is that the seeds are in a jelly that’s been thinned with water, juice, or wine
While our dessert may look like a pear and we thought it was until we took a spoon to it
it was really more of a pear flavored mousse
The sweet, oat-y crisps underneath were the perfect crunchy contrast
The little jelly at 2:00 on the plate – vodka
and one final appearance from tonight’s novelty, hay ash, in the stem

We finished up the night with tea and coffee, which were accompanied by a small plate of house-made truffles. All in all, a really fun night.

 

Lois Britton

An accountant by trade and a food blogger since 2009, Lois Britton fell in love with Polish cuisine during the years she lived in Poznań, Poland. As the creator of PolishHousewife.com,  she loves connecting readers with traditional Polish recipes. Lois has a graduate certificate in Food Writing and Photography from the University of South Florida. She is the author of The Polish Housewife Cookbook, available on Amazon and on her website.

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Filed Under: Polish, Restaurants, Restaurants Poland

Previous Post: « From a Polish Country House Kitchen #11
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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Julie

    September 22, 2013 at 7:06 am

    That looks like so much fun, for you and your tongues. Glad you got to enjoy this wonderful place and thanks for sharing!

    Reply
  2. laponka

    September 22, 2013 at 10:15 am

    Mirabelle is a type of plum, small yellow one:)

    Reply
  3. Lois B

    September 22, 2013 at 12:26 pm

    laponka – thanks, I should have known you would have the answer!

    Reply
  4. Ola

    November 8, 2013 at 7:18 am

    I was there at the very begining, I am not sure I liked the 'food" but of course I appreciate that he has so many ideas!

    Reply

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